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|Tuesday, July 8th, 2008|
A Tale Of Four Dog Foods: Finding The Best Chow For Your Hound
A Tale Of Four Dog Foods: Finding The Best Chow For Your Hound
by: Nathan Fischer
We all love our dogs and want to give them the best life has to offer. But with so many variations of dog food in the market, it isn't always easy to identify the best food for our dog. Who can possibly feel confident when so many brands trumpet buzzwords that hit the human aisles not long ago, such as "rich in antioxidants," "highly digestible," "Omega-3 fatty acids" and "Ultra Premium Formula"?
What we can do, though, is to conduct a simple dog food comparison to determine which foods best fit our dog's requirements and our personal schedule. After all, some foods offer much greater convenience than the more natural, less processed types of food which may require freezing, thawing, cooking and preparation.
Convenience aside, the best food to give your dog depends not on the brand or the style, but rather on your dog's age and any special requirements he might have. For example, older dogs require food containing a careful balance of protein, fat and fiber. Most commercial dog food companies address this need with offerings such as senior dog food, containing about 18 % protein, and food for dogs diagnosed with renal failure, containing about 14% protein.
Dare to Compare Dry Dog Food
The vast majority of dog owners go for dry dog food. Between the supermarket and specialty pet stores, owners enjoy many brands to choose from. Dry dog food consists of kibble typically made from one primary ingredient such as chicken, beef or lamb. More specifically, the main ingredient is usually a meat byproduct that's been processed, dried and sold in packs or bags for easy dispensing. Needless to say, meat byproducts are far cheaper than meat, so this type of dog food is not only easy to store, it's much less expensive than other types.
Hard kibble comes with some advantages. For example, it gives your dog's mouth some exercise, and kibble's less likely to contribute to plaque than softer foods.
When comparing brands, it helps to remember that there are essentially two types of dry dog food on the market: premium dog food and economy dog food. A smart owner will avoid purchasing the economy food, which is made from lower grade ingredients (for example, economy dog food will often substitute cheap corn for the more expensive meat byproducts). The "end" result, as it were, is that your dog can't absorb many nutrients but simply passes the food through his body. So in addition to enjoying less nutrition, your dog will produce larger stools -- and you might find yourself with more frequent vet bills.
Other Popular Contenders: Canned, Semi-Moist and More
Other categories of dog food include the semi-moist type and canned food. Many owners like to mix in some canned food with dry food, to potentially cover more nutritional bases without taking too big a hit to the pocketbook.
Semi-moist food is attractively convenient to owners, and dogs love it. Unfortunately, it may cause dental problems in the mid-term and worse in the long term, because semi-moist food is loaded with corn syrup and other sugars, which dogs just aren't designed to process.
Recently, more natural, "premium" dog food has been introduced to the market, in which higher quantities of quality, nutritious ingredients are used to manufacture the food -- often human-grade, in fact. Since vegetables, fruits, real meat and quality grains are used as the primary protein source in the highest-quality dog foods, these foods are a fast route to healthy skin and beautiful fur. For the most part, they contain no artificial coloring and preservatives, but are chock-full of vitamins and minerals instead.
Although this food costs more, you can feed your dog less of it, because it's more nutritionally dense. So in terms of both convenience and nutrition, a premium, natural dog food is one of the best choices available to your dog, whether off-the-shelf or purchased online.
|Sunday, July 6th, 2008|
Dog Behavior Training - Dog Aggression Toward Its Owners
Dog Behavior Training - Dog Aggression Toward Its Owners
by: Heather Colman
A dog that growls at and/or bites its owner does so for some reason, even if the behavior appears to be "unreasonable" to the owner. If your dog displays aggressive behavior towards you, for the safety and welfare of you, your family and your dog, it's important to find out why as quickly as possible.
Call your vet right away and schedule an appointment for a complete medical examination. Talk with your vet about testing your dogs hormonal balance, neurophysiologic functions and allergies. The test results may reveal the underlying cause. This has been especially helpful in dogs that have mood swings.
When growling or biting has erupted as a consequence of scolding or punishment for behavior such as chewing, jumping, general unruliness, or overprotection of food, these problems must be dealt with swiftly and firmly to correct the aggression it is initiating.
As the dogs owner, you must understand that your dog growls or bites at you as a result of defensive feelings. Even the dog that growls when ordered off the couch is reacting defensively, as it feels its dominance status has been threatened.
If scolding and punishment provoke aggression, your dog is reacting to a perceived threat to its physical safety. In either of these situations, your own threatening behavior may be producing negative results.
If the results of a medical examination show no signs of a medical condition that would be causing this behavior, you will have to examine your own behavior closely to determine what you are doing to make your dog feel threatened.
If you can't hire the services of a professional, I highly recommend you pick up a copy of Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer by Adam Katz for indepth instructions on dog behavior training. This ebook is available on my blog.dog-behavior-training.blogspot.com/
|Monday, June 30th, 2008|
Feeding Your Dog For Health
Feeding Your Dog For Health
by: Leonard Mutch
In today's modern home, pets are part of the family, and pet owners need to design good feeding practices suitable for their particular pet, and also suitable for their own lifestyle.
Owners need to consider too, factors like cost, convenience, variety and availability of foodstuffs for dog food.
They need to think about the individual needs of their own pet and combine foods in a way that the dog food meets those needs.
Most pets in the household live indoors, and are not in regular work so will require what is termed a maintenance diet dog food.
This dog food diet needs to provide a balance of nutrients in the correct amount to keep the animal fit both physically and mentally, and to encourage peak condition and reduce disease.
The dog food also needs to be concentrated adequately so that your dog is not having to eat large volumes of it, and it also should taste good so that your dog eats all its meal.
Make feeding time with your dog fun as this will help with bonding your dog to you.
Dog food time is often the high spot of many a dog's day!
Dogs are omnivorous although we group them with the carnivores. They can quite happily eat fruit and vegetables as well as meat.
My own dog Toby loves nothing better than eating apple cores or cheddar cheese.
It makes a change from dog food!
He does however, have a preference for meat, and will eat it raw or cooked.
Healthy adult dogs can be fed with a variety of foods, or just one complete dog food.
These complete diets can be either dry, semi-moist or canned.
It is advisable to avoid sudden changes in your dogs diet as this will often result in diarrhoea.
Introduce new foods slowly by combining them with the current regime, gradually increasing the new food.
Often the easiest way to vary the diet is to offer different varieties of food from the same manufacturer.
Feeding your dog once a day is often all that is required to keep their appetite satisfied.
I would tend to advise against feeding too late in the evening as this may prompt calls for the toilet in the middle of the night.
Some dogs are happier fed two to three times a day after their owners have eaten, and this can be okay too, provided that an eye is kept on the dog's weight, and obesity doesn't become a problem.
I would advise that dogs which are feeling unwell be fed little and often.
The same would go for dogs with a poor appetite, and also very old dogs.
So how do you tell if you are feeding your dog adequately?
The best way to tell would be by the appearance of your dog.
Does he look in good condition?
Does his coat shine?
Is his skin in good condition?
Is he full of life and vitality, and not too thin or too fat?
Finally, keep a regular check on your dog's weight and have him checked at least every six months at your local veterinarian.
An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.
Feed your dog a well balanced dog food and let him live to enjoy many years at your side.
He may be the key to long life for you too.
|Thursday, June 26th, 2008|
Puppy Agility Training
Puppy Agility Training
by: Brad Carlson
You may be asking, "When can I start agility training with my new puppy?" Puppies are always learning, so every time you are with your pup you can be playing and socializing with agility in mind. Always remember, if you can control your puppies environment, you can teach and train the behaviors you want, left on their own, even in a fenced yard, puppies will learn and develop behaviors that later we may want or need to extinguish.
One of the first behaviors we teach our pups is "Table" or "Box". This behavior transfers to the agility pause table. But more than that, the table is the center and control point of our puppy training. We introduce pups and older dogs to the table set at a 12 inch height. If you have a very small pup you could use an 8 inch table, but even with bigger dogs we use the 12 inch table and not higher. To begin, lure pup up on a low pause table, treat him for getting on the table. Once the pup is comfortable getting up on the table, then lure the pup up to a sit. You can also lure to a down.
Next you want to work on distance to the table. If you have a person to help you you can use a white target plate on the table, take the pup and step back from the table about 3 feet. Have your helper make a noise to get the pup's attention, and place a treat on the table. Release your pup to, "Go table." The pup gets his reward only when getting up on the table. If you don't have a helper, than place your treat in a covered container that will be recognized as a treat box for your pup. Leave the treat container on the table, step away from the table about 3 feet, face the table and say, "Go Table".
If your pup is very young, you can hold him as you lift him off the table and move away from the table. If your pup is too big for you to hold then use a flatbuckle collar and light dragline for your pup.
Now introduce your jumps to your pup. But you are not going to use the jump bars yet. First you want your pup to go through or between the jump uprights. Set a jump about 4 feet away from your table. Take your pup to the other side of the jump. So you are lined up pup, jump, then table. You want to get your pups attention to the treat on the table, either with a helper or a treat container, release your pup to the table, "Go Table". Let the pup run ahead of you, but go meet him at the table so that he can get his treat, praise him then offer him another treat for sitting on the table.
Progress with adding one extra jump at a time. Spacing the jumps about 3 feet apart. You are developing a jump chute that will lead the pup to the table. Remember your goal is to build the command, "Go" and "Table". You are also teaching the pup to move out ahead of you, working away from you and getting comfortable working around tables and jumps. Your pup is getting familiar running through the jump uprights, but you are not focusing on having your pup jump.
With all your puppy training, have fun with your pup. Use all your puppies motivators, praise, toys, and food. It is up to you to be more interesting to your pup than all the other distractions out in the yard.
|Saturday, June 21st, 2008|
Training Your German Shepherd Dog
Training Your German Shepherd Dog
by: Jayne Shenstone
The German Shepherd Dog truly is a wonderful animal and not only do they make good working dogs, they also make superb family pets. They are however very different from other pet breeds and need to be handled and trained with a different approach to say your average labrador or poodle for instance.
The German Shepherd Dog is a large, strong athletic dog, which needs a lot of mental stimulation and exercise but a well trained shepherd can learn to do almost anything. These dogs positively thrive on challenging activities and they are so willing to serve their master and please. As a working dog used by most police forces, the very look of a GSD is usually enough to act as a deterrent but when called into action there are few dogs that can match the German Shepherd as an all rounder.
If you are considering becoming an owner of a GSD then you need to consider the commitment to training in order that you have happy, well behaved German Shepherd dog that you can take out safely in public.
If you haven't previously owned one of these dogs then please do not take on a youngster lightly. Being involved in GSD rescue I have lost count of the number of young dogs I have had to re-home because owners bought them without doing a bit of research first.
As youngsters they can be very boisterous and can easily knock over children or elderly relatives, especially if you do not discourage the dog from jumping up when excited. A bored GSD can be very destructive and if left alone will trash your house and contents with ease using their big teeth and claws. Unfortunately these dogs don't really mature until they are about 3 years old so you are in for the long haul to get through the puppy and adolescent stage
The German Shepherd needs to be well socialised from an early age and needs plenty of exposure to people and other dogs so that they do not develop aggressive tendencies as they mature.
Joining a dog training class from an early age is a good idea and most clubs will accept dogs into the puppy classes from about 4 months onwards. This should be good fun for your puppy and allows him to play and to socialise but it also serves the purpose of teaching him or her what is acceptable and what is not. This will prove invaluable grounding for your German Shepherd training.
When choosing a dog training class do check out a few first as not all classes make German Shepherds welcome and if any club asks that you muzzle your dog, please give it a miss and move on and find another club. No reputable dog training class would require a dog to be muzzled. If your dog is aggressive towards other dogs there are better ways of controlling the dog safely such as by using a Canny Collar which is a simple effective head collar similar to those used on horses.
The earlier you start training and socialisation the better as GSD's often develop a tendency to be aggressive towards other dogs and also towards strangers and they can become very protective towards their owners and property.
Another important part of training your german shepherd is to get him used to being groomed because they shed copious amounts of hair and although they only moult once a year, it lasts for 365 days. So be prepared for dog hair all over your house, your clothes, in your food and buy yourself a very good vacuum cleaner.
Training your German Shepherd should be very much part of everyday life and is should be fun so stick with it because it really will be worth it in the end.
Ask me - Getting a Dog? How to Choose a Perfect Match for Your Family
|Monday, June 9th, 2008|
How To Keep Your Pet Python Happy?
How To Keep Your Pet Python Happy?
by: Lazarus Prabhu
There are literally hundreds of 'word of mouth' tips and tricks ... you need to know including all the hard to find Python information people just can't locate with internet searches or trips to the library!
All it needs is the patience to learn them, and follow the advice and suggestions.
If you're a committed python owner, and learn all you need to know about pythons and python rearing, you can keep your pet python happy, and raise a beautiful, lovable python who will bring years and years of companionship, thrill and joy to you and your family, safely and cost-effectively!
OK - today, let's talk about how to make your pet python - when you have one - HAPPY! (Because you have to admit, when your pet is happy, you're happy too!!!)
First things first. How do you know when your python is happy?
Pythons are wild animals that don't know how to exhibit their happiness to humans.
At least not as yet. ;)
The two most important things you can do to make your python happy have to do with the SUN and SWIMMING.
* The Sun ...
Most pythons enjoy basking under the sun. Therefore if you provide your pet a good hide box and a heat spot, it will use the hide box to rest most of the time, or just coil around the heat spot basking. A warm python is usually a happy python!
* Swimming (exercise) ...
Given the narrow confines of the cage we provide them, pythons don't get much of the exercise they would otherwise get in the wild forests.
The best exercise for pythons is swimming. True, it is not possible to take the python to a swimming pool or an abandoned pond for security reasons.
But you can use a kiddy pool or a large plastic tub to create a python swimming pool.
Just fill the pool or tub with warm water and let your python in it. You will watch it move around happily, keeping its head above the water.
Make it a point to clean the tub or kiddy pool with disinfectants every time.
Swimming is definitely one of the best ways of entertaining your pet python.
* Other ways to keep your python happy ...
Of course, mating your python when it is ready is also another important happiness you can give your python. More about this in a future article.
With experience though, you'll be able to notice anything 'out of the norm' for your python thru its body language ... signs that it may be feeling sick or uncomfortable, though this will be a little difficult to see at first.
And it's important to learn all the signs of illness, and make sure your python is not ill. This requires a separate article too, as it is an involved topic by itself.
Here's to happier pythons!
.pythonsecrets.com/ "Everything you need to know about Pythons all in one place!"
DISCLAIMER: The information in this article is offered for education only.
More and more - Buying a Mastiff Puppy
|Saturday, July 22nd, 2006|
Lost in NC
I should've done this a long time ago, but it's better than never, i guess.( Picture under cutCollapse )
This is my baby, and i wish i had more help than none.
I live in tallahassee, and lost him while on vacation in nc in june.
I am very broken up about it.
Please, if you know anyone in this area of nc, please pass on word.
I don't know anyone in that town, and can't go back up there to post pictures or anything.
All i've been able to do is get one vet office to post a picture of him on their bulletin board, and since, have had no word.
I check the stokes co animal shelter online, but havn't found him & i talked to them on the phone.
I don't know what else to do.
|Saturday, November 19th, 2005|
There's a new cat community up called felinebehavior
. It's a place to discuss your cat's strange behavior, be it curious, smart, comical, or just plain odd. Ask questions and discuss those unique feline behaviors that aren't necessarily problems, but get our attention.
I made this community because I've been part of a forum of the same nature that just seems to be dead now. I really enjoyed hearing about all these different cats' cute or quirky ways. I hope you'll all join and share your cats' with everyone. We can discuss solutions, laugh about the cute nature of your cat, or be there to support each other in those troubled times.
|Thursday, September 29th, 2005|
Wednesday night was Davie's first vet visit and it has all turned out really well for now. Well, first I guess you should know that Davie was officially dubbed to be a female, and no, we are not changing her name from Davie – even though my boyfriend keeps insisting that we do. The doctor believes she is about a year and half old, and that she may look younger but it's just because she is a 'petite cat'. I mean, she only weighed in at a little less than six pounds.
As far as her tests went, she tested negative for Feline Leukemia and negative for any parasites as well. So we are very relieved about that. The doctor said that that she is in relatively good health, just a little under nourished, but besides that she seems to be fine. As far as the hair loss on her back is concerned, the doctor said that she believes it is just from being malnourished but just to make sure we did a "culture-dermatophyte". As soon as those tests come back we will either cure the hair loss issue (if it is positive) or allow Davie to finally run free in the house with our other cats (if it is negative). It can't be mange or anything of the sort, because she is parasite free, so the doctor is almost sure it is just from being outside and not healthy.
As far as shots and vaccine area concerned, Davie got her FeLV Vaccine and also her FVRCP kitten vaccine this visit. In three weeks we will be taking her back to get her other set of shots (I believe she still needs her booster and something else). So we will make sure to keep you updated as things progress.
Also, here is the invoice of the vet visit, just in case any of you wanted to see it for some reason or another. I know a lot of you are still skeptical about this whole thing, so hopefully that will clear your mind of any disbelief you may still have. The cost for the visit was $168, but they gave me a student discount for going to USF so it got knocked down to $151.20. I still have to go back and get the rest of her shots taken care of, which will probably run me between $60-$80, and then get her sterilized at the Humane Society for $40. So, I'm no where near done spending the cash, but I am just happy that Davie is going to be okay :) My info has been blacked out for safety reasons of course.
( INVOICE OF DAVIE’S VET VISITCollapse )
And I also have some new pictures of Davie from in my apartment - enjoy.
( NEW PICTURES OF DAVIECollapse )
Thanks to everyone that donated to help save Davie! We appreciate it!!!
<3 Amber Current Mood: happy
|Friday, September 23rd, 2005|
Help Save Davie!!!
Hey guys! I don't know how many people have read my post before about Davie, but this is a post to beg anyone of you that can help me, to help out. ( The Davie StoryCollapse )
Please, please, PLEASE! If anyone can give anything to help me out with this cat I would be forever grateful. My heart really goes out to Davie, it's special. It isn't one of those cats that want to be outside and alone... Davie really wants a home, and I need help so he/she can get one.
I am going to spend my entire refund check from USF (left over money from grants and scholarships) to save this cat, but it isn't going to be enough. I get the check on the 20th of October, so I have about 1 month to come up with as much money as I can to get Davie healthy. If I can get 20 people to give just $5, which cuts the cost for me down to 50% of what the total estimated cost is. Better yet, if I could get 20 people to donate $10 each I could buy it extra things such as cat food and litter, because I do already have 2 cats.
If you can't give, I understand. But, if you can, please give something, anything is better than nothing.
Thanks again guys!
*I would appreciate it if you guys could spread the word about this. I have posted this in many journals, so I am just praying for everyone to give a little bit, just a little to save Davie... Current Mood: sad
|Friday, April 29th, 2005|
Hi everyone =)
My friends and I started a new online pet community for the love of animals~<3
If you are an animal lover or just love your pet, you would definitely like this website!
It has all the cool functions, and it is completely free to join.
, you can:
- Create pet homepages to share the love you have for your pet.
- Find the perfect match for your pet with PetMatch!
- Adopt a homeless pet in your local community.
- Find your lost buddy in Lost & Found.
... and much more for you to explore!
Just visit us @ http://www.PetHop.com
and see what we have to offer =)
Also, check out your favorite Show Dog Mom & Dads
!Tooter & Adam
, Roxy & Moira
, Chalcy & Kyra
- Get in touch with the Hot Dogs in Show Biz! =D
|Saturday, November 22nd, 2003|
Well I'm new at this and I accidently posted a picture of one of the stupid dogs that I live with. This is me <------ I'm a savanna monitor, beautiful and rough skinned not some huge furry freak. There are lots of other things that live here too, I have read about zoos and I might live in one but I'm not sure.
tootles for now,
Stevie Current Mood: awake
|Friday, November 21st, 2003|
I'm Stevie and I live in Gainesville Fl with this nice girl who brings me souls to eat and the occasional mouse. I get depressed often so I thought that communicating with others in alike situations would help. Its really boring in my cage. if I get caught out of it I might be in trouble so good thing the people that I stay with are gone a lot.
My interests are as follows:
eating baby rats
eating anything that will fit in my mouth
rubbing my nose on the glass of my cage
well its been nice chatting gotta go back to my enclosure nice meeting all of you
|Monday, November 17th, 2003|
|Friday, October 10th, 2003|
|Saturday, August 23rd, 2003|
|Saturday, July 12th, 2003|
For the Pets with Petmates...
Has any of you feel displaced by a recently arrived petmate?
This is what Riley and I have felt since rael_stardust
arrived to djpekky
Are we alone in this or any of you have suffered something similar.
Thanks in advance.
Monchaux Current Mood: curious
|Tuesday, July 8th, 2003|
We are two dogs called Monchaux (Pronounced Moncho) and Riley. We live in djpekky
's house and soon rael_stardust
will join us. Monchaux was born in Venezuela from a Colombian poodle and an American poodle. I, Riley, was born in Charleston, South Carolina, and have a mix of poodle and Yorkshire terrier, although I am not related to Monchaux. In fact I am a Redneck. We live with Pekky, Gabby and Rafa in Columbia, South Carolina. Hell Yeah!
Nice to meet ya!
--Riley Current Mood: excited
Hi fellow pets. I am a 7 weeks old cat called Rael Stardust. Yes I am just a child! :) Current Mood: happy
|Thursday, June 19th, 2003|
umm yeah so my human got a tangerine snow cone thingy it was umm goood
Current Mood: devious
|Job||9 to 5 Lifer|
|Personality||Procrastinator (If The Apathy Doesn't Kill Me)|
|Temperament||Cool And Calm|
|Likely To Win||The Wrath Of My Peers|
|Me - In A Word||Effervescent|
|Brought to you by MemeJack|